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It’s simply there to prevent engine damage.” When he followed up with, “We can certainly increase the rev limiter very safely by 500 rpm, which should massively ease this issue!” I clearly got my hopes up. This type of buffer is actually present in every ECU/bike that comes with an autoblipper from the factory. I suspected this was Yamaha’s way of saving the engine from over-revving and Phipps confirmed it when he mentioned “there is a 250-rpm buffer built into the ECU to prevent the bike from exceeding the rev limiter when downshifting. In addition, when I rode the MT-10 SP at the track in stock form, I mentioned how the autoblip downshifts were very hard to engage, requiring me to space them out farther than I wanted. This requires loosening the tension at the EXUP valve itself before removing the cable, then you can have the necessary slack at the servo motor located under the seat to undo the cabling up there. After that comes removal of the push/pull cables used for the Yamaha EXUP valve, as the valves and the cables won’t be needed anymore. Removing the stock silencer gives you space to slide the stock cat off the exhaust headers. You also need to loosen the O2 sensors and place them out of the way (more on that in a minute).
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Most of these bolts and brackets won’t be reused. There are a series of bolts to loosen or remove, some of which reveal brackets that are primarily to support the heft of the stock cat. Installation of the midpipe is simple – it’s removing the stock midpipe/cat that’s a bit of a process. Not to mention, keeping the stock silencer retains the sleeper appearance and a modest exhaust note at idle. I like it because it also lets you keep the stock silencer, so you’re not forced to spend additional money to buy a slip-on exhaust if you don’t want to. If keeping your motorcycle 100% road-legal is of utmost importance to you, then stop reading this section now.įor the rest of you, the Leo Vince cat-delete midpipe (and others like it) is a cheap and simple upgrade that not only frees up some power and awakens a rumbling (but subtle) growl from the engine, but it also sheds over 13 lbs from the bottom of the bike. If you have the standard MT-10 and not the SP, I’d suggest changing the pads first, then replacing the rubber lines for steel. But overall, this upgrade is an absolute must for any MT owner, in my opinion. If I were to nitpick, I’d say the Brembo master cylinder is now the weak link, as there feels like a tiny bit of play in the lever, different from air in the lines. The harder I pull the lever, the more eager the bike is to slow down. And thanks to that strong initial bite, the overall braking power feels more robust, too. The initial bite is immediately stronger than the stock pads, which is a big complaint with the soft standard pads. This removes the old pad material and lets the new pads bite onto the disc.Īs for the results – well, let’s just say it reinforces what we say a lot here at MO: brake pads can transform a mediocre brake setup. Of course, don’t forget to take some high-grit sandpaper or a Scotchbrite pad and wipe down the brake rotor before bedding in the new pads. It’s an easy five-minute job with big results. Installation is super easy, too, as you just need to remove a clip, slide the old pads out, slide the new ones in, and reinstall the clip.
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For only $80, it’s a huge value for dramatic braking performance, especially over the stock pads. EBC was kind enough to send its HH sintered brake pads, which are its most aggressive.